Disclaimer: The safest method for cleaning any fur coat is professional furrier care. The methods below are for maintenance, spot cleaning, and odor reduction between professional cleanings, or for lower-risk pieces like vintage or thrifted coats. Always test any method on an inconspicuous area first.
Part 1: How to Clean Fur Coat at Home (Without Dry Cleaning)
Traditional “dry cleaning” is not recommended for furs. Professional furriers use specialized processes.
For Real Fur (Gentle Refreshing)
For General Refreshing and Dust Removal:
- Hang & Air Out: Hang the coat on a broad, padded hanger outdoors in a shaded, cool, dry place with good airflow for several hours. Avoid direct sun and humidity.
- The “Shake & Pat” Method: Vigorously shake the coat to dislodge surface dust. Gently pat and fluff the fur with your hands in the direction of the nap.
- Use a Hair Dryer (Cool Setting): On the coolest, no-heat setting only, use a blow dryer to blow through the fur. This helps remove embedded dust and fluffs it up. Keep the dryer moving and at least 6 inches away.
For Spot Cleaning (Water-Based Stains):
- Blot, Don’t Rub: Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth or paper towel to blot up any fresh moisture.
- Mild Solution: Mix a tiny amount of white vinegar or mild wool detergent with cool water (e.g., 1 tbsp vinegar per cup of water).
- Damp Cloth Method: Dampen a corner of a white cloth in the solution, wring it out completely until it’s only barely damp. Gently wipe the stained area, following the grain of the fur.
- Rinse & Dry: Immediately “rinse” the area by wiping with a cloth dampened with clean cool water (also well-wrung). Blot with a dry towel. Allow to air dry completely away from heat, then fluff.
For Spot Cleaning (Oil-Based Stains):
- Absorbent Powders: For grease or oil, sprinkle cornstarch, talc-free baby powder, or fuller’s earth on the spot. Gently work it in and let it sit for several hours or overnight to absorb the oil. Brush out thoroughly with a soft brush.
Part 2: How to Clean a Rabbit Fur Coat
Rabbit fur is more delicate than some other furs (like mink) and can mat more easily. Extreme caution is needed.
- Follow General Refreshing Steps: Shaking and cool-air blowing are your best friends.
- For Stains: Use the damp cloth method described above, but be even more conservative with moisture. Rabbit leather (the skin side) is thin and can become brittle if wet.
- Brushing: Use a very soft-bristled brush (like a baby’s hair brush) or a dedicated fur brush. Brush gently in the direction of the nap only to avoid pulling hairs and damaging the leather.
- Professional is Best: Given its fragility, rabbit fur benefits greatly from professional furrier services every few years if worn regularly.
Part 3: How to Clean a Fur Coat That Smells
For Musty/Mothball Smell (Common in Thrift Stores):
- Air It Out: This is step one. Hang it in a well-ventilated, dry area for 24-48 hours.
- Baking Soda: Place the coat in a large plastic bag or a box with an open box of baking soda. Seal it closed and let it sit for 24-48 hours. The baking soda will absorb odors. Remove and shake thoroughly.
- Vodka Spray (A Theatrical Costumer’s Trick): Mix 1 part high-proof vodka (like 80 proof) with 2 parts distilled water in a spray bottle. Lightly mist the fur only from a distance of 12 inches. Do not soak the leather. As the alcohol evaporates, it takes odors with it. Test first.
- Dryer Sheets: Tuck a few unscented dryer sheets in the pockets and let the coat hang for a few days.
- Coffee Grounds: Place the coat and an open bowl of fresh, dry coffee grounds in a sealed container for a day. The grounds can neutralize odors.
Part 4: How to Clean a Fur Coat from a Thrift Store
- Inspect Thoroughly: Look for holes, tears in the leather, moth damage (clumps of missing fur, sandy debris), and stiffness. Check the lining for stains.
- Sanitize, Don’t Deep Clean: The goal is to make it wearable, not like-new. Most recommend:
- Freezing (The Moth Killer): To eliminate any potential pests or eggs, seal the coat in a plastic bag and place it in a deep freezer for at least 72 hours. Thaw slowly at room temperature.
- Air Out for Days, even weeks, in a garage or spare room.
- Use the baking soda or vodka spray methods for odor.
- Spot clean only if necessary.
- Consensus: For a valuable or beloved find, take it to a furrier for an assessment and professional cleaning/glazing. They can restore suppleness to the leather (a process called “re-oiling”) and address issues you can’t see.
Part 5: Long-Term Fur Care, Cleaning, & Repair
Storage (The Most Important Factor):
- Climate-Controlled: Store in a cool (40-50°F/4-10°C), dark place with moderate humidity. Attics and basements are bad.
- Breathable Bag: Use a cloth garment bag (not plastic, which traps moisture). Allow space for air circulation.
- Padded Hanger: Always use a wide, padded hanger to support the shoulders.
- Summer Storage: Consider professional cold storage, which protects against heat, humidity, and pests.
Regular Maintenance:
- Hang & Fluff: After wearing, hang it up to air out and gently fluff the fur.
- Let Rain/Damp Coats Dry at room temperature away from heat before storing.
Professional Services:
- Cleaning & Glazing: A furrier should do this every 1-3 years depending on use. “Glazing” smooths and adds luster to the fur.
- Re-oiling: The leather skin needs oils to stay supple. Professionals do this during cleaning.
- Repair:Do not attempt DIY repairs. A furrier can:
- Restitch seams in the leather.
- Replace linings.
- Re-stitch loose pelts.
- Invisible Mending: For small holes, they can take fur from hidden areas (like a facing or hem) and graft it in.
General Rules:
- Never use standard dry cleaners unless they are specifically fur experts.
- Never use heat, steam, or iron.
- Never store in direct sunlight.
- Never use wire brushes, combs, or chemical cleaners.
By following this guide, you can safely maintain your fur coat’s beauty and value for decades. When in doubt, consult a certified furrier.